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Saturday, 5 October 2013

Blue Mountains & Byron Bay

G'day folks,

I know it's been a while - so I'm just letting you know that this blog still exists and thought I'd write a little about my trips to the Blue Mountains and to Byron Bay last week.

As most of you will know, I'm here in Sydney on a DAAD scholarship. Before I came here, the DAAD organised a preparatory meeting for everyone to get to know each other and give us more information about what was expected of us. At that meeting, I also met Ninia who is studying in Melbourne and who came over to Sydney for a short holiday during mid-semester break.
F.l.t.r.: Ninia, me and Laura on the ferry in Darling Harbour
Ninia and me at Bondi Beach - starting our Bondi to Bronte coastal walk
Tamarama Beach
The coastal walk goes all along the coastline of Sydney's eastern suburbs, connecting Bondi Beach to Tamarama, Bronte and Coogee Beach. Besides the obligatory sightseeing tour of Sydney, also including Manly, we visited the Blue Mountains.
The eastern edge of the Blue Mountains is situated about 50 km (31 miles) to the west of Sydney and forms a part of the Great Dividing Range along Australia's east coast. Once a plateau, various rivers carved their way through the sandstone bedrock to form dozens of valleys that are up to 760 metres (2,490 ft) deep. As you will see from the photos below, this area is second to none in the world and as such is deemed worthy to be preserved. This is why seven national parks have been established in the greater Blue Mountains area. If you want to go there, it is best to visit during the week as weekends are always busy. We stayed overnight in Katoomba from Monday to Tuesday and explored the area (Katoomba, Blackheath etc.).

Cherry blossoms - Spring in the Blue Mountains =)
One of probably ten million cicadas, the size of a hand!
Panoramic view of the Three Sisters near Echo Point (click to enlarge)
Ninia & me at Echo Point
 As you can tell from the above photos, the Blue Mountains got their name from the tinge of blue that the mountains get if viewed from a distance. It is believed that this blue tinge emerges from scattering of light in ultraviolet radiation that may be enhanced in the Blue Mountains area by volatile chemicals emitted by the eucalyptus trees in the valleys.

From Echo Point, we went down the Giant Stairway that goes down behind the Three Sisters. 900 steps after that, we arrived at the valley floor where we took the Scenic Railway back up to Echo Point. This railway was formerly used to carry coals from the mines underneath the rocks to the top - but since coal mining in the area has ceased, the railway was converted to the world's steepest cable-driven train ride at a gradient of 52°.

View of Jamison Valley, 12 km (7.5 mi) long and 10 km (6.2 mi) wide - inhabited by humans for 40,000 years!
View of the Three Sisters from the Scenic Railway platform
The Scenic Railway arriving at the bottom
 Our way back to Katoomba took us past waterfalls and even more stunning scenery before we could finally go to bed around 9 pm - a very long day indeed.

A little creek that drops down into the valley
Artsy photo of Ninia at a waterfall
The next day with a quick breakfast at our hostel in Katoomba. The plan for the day: catch a bus to Blackheath to visit Govett's Leap Lookout and walk to Pulpit Rock. Besides the fact that the bus driver stopped wherever people waved at him (instead of actual bus stops), everyone seemed to know each other and started chatting on the bus before getting off again in the middle of nowhere - again, no bus stop in sight. At Govett's Leap, the views were breath-taking and the weather was fantastic so we decided to do the walk to Pulpit Rock. Estimated walking time: 3 hours return. Considering that buses only run every two and a half hours - challenge accepted! The walk took us down to a little creek that we had to cross and then lead up again to a cliff-top walk.

Ninia on our hike to Pulpit Rock
When we arrived at Pulpit Rock, we barely had time to sit down and have a rest before starting to make our way back to Govett's Leap to be there in time for our bus back to Katoomba. That day, it was so windy that people with small children were advised not to do the walk or to hold onto their children. The view, however, was so amazing that it didn't even matter that the yogurt we brought was blown off our spoons and into our faces.

Panoramic view of Pulpit Rock (click to enlarge)

Our way back to Sydney was exactly like our way to Katoomba - we fell asleep on the train =) When we arrived here in Newtown, it was already time to pack because the next morning, both Ninia and I had to get up early and go to the airport. Ninia went back to Melbourne and I caught a flight up to Byron Bay with Laura, Sarah and Lisette to spend a few days somewhere else before having to go back to uni.

Byron Bay is a very small town of about 5,600 inhabitants that is situated in the far north-eastern corner of New South Wales, more than 770 km north of Sydney. Even though NSW is one of the smaller states of Australia, it took us over an hour to get there by plane. Byron Bay is famous for its hippie culture, its beautiful beaches and good waves - the prime destination for surfers from all around Australia and even the globe.

Leaving Sydney for Ballina / Byron Bay
Scenic flight along the Northern beaches and Port Stephens
Arrival at Ballina Airport - as always, we had to walk over the tarmac =)
Because we had booked everything at short notice, we had to put up with what was left accommodation-wise. We stayed at The Arts Factory Lodge, a small-ish but cosy backpackers hostel outside of Byron Bay. As the name suggests, it was quite alternative and easy-going. Our double-bed private rooms turned out to be permanent tents on the edge of an estuary that smelled like rotten eggs due to the exceptionally high amount of sulfuric acid in the water. The showers were on the other side of the bridge that connected the "Island Retreat" section from the rest of the hostel facilities that included a bar, kitchen, reception, showers & bathrooms, laundry and several self-serve machines.

View of the estuary with a hammock on the right
Our permanent tents - accessible via a boardwalk to not disturb the
bush turkeys and lizards in their natural habitat
Presumably due to the remote location of the hostel, house rules did not seem to be strictly adhered to. But oh well - it's Byron Bay. Who would even bother to put that paragraph about "illegal substances" on their house rules blackboard. Utterances like "Oh man, those mushrooms were the best idea ever" in a conversation between two guys under the shower actually did fit into the picture.

House Rules at the Arts Factory Lodge - not to be taken seriously! =)
We spent most of our days at the beach and in town which was about a 15 minute walk away from our hostel. The souvenir shops and clothing stores were quite tempting, so we looked for good deals one afternoon. Another day, we hired bikes or watched the sunset at the beach with whales jumping out of the water in the distance.

Panoramic view of "our" beach
Cider at sunset while watching waves & whales - priceless =)
Sunset @ Byron Bay
Hippie-style cars and campervans everywhere!
But as always - unfortunately, every holiday must come to an end and so I caught my flight home to Sydney with a spectacular view of Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge during our descent:

Sydney Harbour from above =)
After my mid-semester break, I will have to work on my big assignments as we're reaching the end of my second semester at Sydney Uni already. My semester here finishes at the beginning of November - but that doesn't mean that I'll come straight back home. More travel is yet to come so look forward to the following trips:

November: Fiji Islands, Mackay & Whitsunday Islands (Australia)
December: Adelaide (Australia), Christmas & New Year's Down Under, Cairns (Australia)
January: Christchurch & Queenstown (NZ), Nelson (NZ), Bay of Islands (NZ), Fiji Islands
February: Trip back to Germany

Till then - hang in there & take care!

Your Travel Hobbit =)

Thursday, 1 August 2013

Sanbij, volkeno mo fani pipol - wokbaot long Vanuatu wetem brata blong mi =)

Hey everyone,

as the mid-year break is reaching its end, here is the last post about travels for the time being.

After my trip around Australia with Franzi, my second holiday took me to Vanuatu with my brother who visited me in Sydney for two weeks: we visited Circular Kai and had a look at the sKAIline of Sydney - take a look =)

Sydney Opera House
Panoramic View from the Harbour Bridge (click to enlarge)
At Mrs Macquarie's Point
Sydney's Skyline
At Hogwarts =)
Manly Beach
Meeting up with some friends - Nadine and Isabel
Weekly Fireworks at Darling Harbour

Now for those of you who might wonder what the title of this post has to do with its content - it's written in Bislama, one of the three official languages of Vanuatu, along with English and French. The Republic of Vanuatu is a small country in the South Pacific Ocean that only gained independence from France and the UK in 1980, making it one of the youngest countries in the world. 230,000 people live on the 65 bigger islands that stretch out over 800 miles (1,300 km) in a north to south direction. While comprising an area of about 12,000 sq km (4700 sq miles) - a similar size to Montenegro - 62% of it are covered by water.

Coming back to the title of this post - and I hope you're still with me - it says "Beach, volcano and funny people - travel in Vanuatu with my brother" - or quite literally: "Sandbeach, volcano and funny people - walkabout in Vanuatu with brother belong me". From a linguistic perspective, this language is more than interesting since it draws on only about 2,800 words which are then combined in order to form rather complex structures such as the ones used in the title of this post. This being said, let's turn to the experience of visiting the various places in Vanuatu that we went to.

We went over to Vanuatu on its national carrier Air Vanuatu that only operates 5 aircraft in its fleet. After a 3.5 hour flight from Sydney - the equivalent of flying from London to Istanbul - we arrived at Bauerfield International Airport in Port Vila.

Air Vanuatu's only Boeing 737-800
Our route to the middle of nowhere =)
Magnificent views of New Caledonia

At the airport, we were picked up for transfer to our hotel which was an Apartment Hotel in the heart of Port Vila with stunning views of Iririki Island, a resort island in Vila Bay.

Iririki Island Resort, view from Mariner Apartments
Port Vila as the capital of Vanuatu does not have public transport, probably due to its rather small population of 30,000 people. Instead, mini vans featuring the letter "B" on their number plate operate as buses throughout the city centre and around the island of Efaté - just wave at them and they will take you almost anywhere for 200 Vatu (= 1,50 € / AU$ 2.30 / US$ 2.10). Taxis are a little more expensive, so it was very convenient that we were right in the "city".

Port Vila's fruit and veggie market hall
Since we had booked a "Round-the-Island" tour on Efaté, we were contacted by staff at the airport pointing out that the day we had booked it for was a public holiday, i.e. no tours would operate. Therefore, we already went on the tour on our second day in Vanuatu which turned out to be a good decision - the weather was fantastic.

Rainforest in Vanuatu
Lush grassland, bush and palm trees on Efaté
A Banyan tree on Efaté, one of the most sturdy trees in the world
that can even withstand a cyclone.
Our guides took us out of Port Vila and around Efaté, showing us the native vegetation, explaining traditions and customs and pointing out issues that Vanuatu is facing. The country itself is rather poor and largely dependent on financial aid from Australia, New Zealand and the USA for whom it used to serve as a military base. Therefore, the road around Efaté is fully developed whereas Vila has to put up with gravel roads and huge potholes that could almost fit a small car. Since most of the tourists were Australian, the guides liked to point out that in Vanuatu, they drive on the "wrong side of the road" - the right - but for my brother and me, it was indeed the "right side". Then again, the Ni-Vanuatu people are quite relaxed about traffic regulations. If there are potholes, why not drive on the left? In any case, they sound their horns a lot. We drove past former coconut plantations that were abandoned by their French owners when Vanuatu became independent, visited hidden waterfalls and beaches and went to a cultural village where locals introduced us to the pre-colonial traditions of the Ni-Vanuatu people.

Coconut plantation
Hidden waterfalls
Picnic area in a river
Ni-Vanuatu chief
Ni-Vanuatu dance
The Garden of Eden
Huge Hibiscus blossoms in the Garden of Eden
A traditional lunch: banana in coconut cream, rice, beef and mango / papaya salad
At the beach
Manua Primary School
A Ni-Vanuatu museum... of coke bottles from all over the world

One of our trips was to Tanna Island which is about an hour's flight south of Port Vila and definitely worth going to. We opted for an overnight stay since we wanted to visit Mount Yasur, an active volcano that has been constantly erupting for centuries and has therefore become a tourist attraction. Take a look:

The Domestic Terminal at Port Vila's airport
Our plane - big enough to fit 9 people, including the pilot
On the way to Tanna with a lovely Sri Lankan couple in the back =)
View of Port Vila and Iririki Island from above
Tanna Evergreen Resort Ocean View bungalows - magic!
Enjoying fruit smoothies and cocktails in paradise!
Instead of spending our time in Tanna on the beach, however, we were picked up for our Volcano tour in the afternoon. Compared to the roads on Tanna, Port Vila was like driving on clouds: a 2-hour bumpy ride in a 4WD was awaiting us before reaching the ashplains of Mount Yasur - the probably most impressive tour of my life so far was ahead.

4WD-ing it through the mountains
The ashplains of Mount Yasur (click to enlarge)
At the foot of the volcano experiencing a formidable rumble and shaky ground
The crater's edge of an active volcano - only about 50 metres away!
Nature's most impressive fireworks at dusk!
While we were waiting at the crater's edge and no one was thinking much of it, we could see the smoke ascending from the crater and smaller explosions shook the ground. Against the night sky, Mt. Yasur then offered the most impressive spectacle I have ever witnessed in my life: tons of liquid rock were catapulted out of the crater, some of which came to rest on the crater's edge below us, glowing threateningly in the dark. The major explosions that followed temporarily deafened my ears. You know those documentaries about volcanic eruptions that show a heat wave coming down from the volcanoes and eradicating everything in their way? I've always found that hard to believe - but it makes perfect sense now. While these minor eruptions have become a tourist sight, the last big eruption was in 2008 - and as if Yasur wanted to prove his power, we learnt that the roads to the crater had been closed a day after our visit due to major activity. In the Ni-Vanuatu legends, Yasur used to be a man that was seeking for a place to settle. When he was given food and experienced the hospitality of Ni-Vanuatu women, he decided to stay on Tanna Island and over time, grew into the ground. The small eruptions that we saw signify his breath, major eruptions refer to Yasur's coughing.

Back on Efaté, we spent another day in Port Vila and on Iririki Island, enjoying the marvellous sunsets of the South Pacific before finally heading back to Sydney.

The Infinity Pool at Iririki Island Resort
Sunset on Iririki Island
Vanuatu has probably been one of the most impressive destinations I've ever been to, leaving me with a lasting effect of awe, respect and admiration for both the land and the people.

Tank yu tumas, Vanuatu for your hospitality! I will definitely be back =)